Posts Tagged With: United States

Every Protest Should Rise To This Level Of Fun

"What Would Chile Be Without Calama?"

I have to hand it to Chileans. Well, at least the Chileans in the northern town of Calama. They know how to make anti-government protest and random acts of civil disobedience entertaining. I’ve never had so much fun at a demonstration.

Not that I’ve participated in many protests to know the dynamics, the mechanics and what is to be expected. I have to think back to my college years to recall a demonstration I took part in. It was against a proposal to replace the free-wheeling, free-choice Liberal Artsprogram with a mandatory core set of academic subjects. So instead of entering college and choosing which subjects you wanted to take toward your major, a freshman would be required to take a series of  courses in math, science, English and a sprinkling of other subjects before he or she could fully concentrate on subjects in whatever major he or she had settled on.

Masked Man

Minority students saw that as a backdoor strategic move to scrap ethnic studies, such as Black Studies and Puerto Rican studies. Demonstrations decades before had led to the establishment of those departments and students weren’t about to let them go without a fight. I still remember the chant of hundreds of students in front of the administration building: “Core curriculum we say no! Ethnic studies won’t go!!” We lost that battle. All the college administration had to do is wait. Soon, the vocal opponents would have graduated and moved on to real life issues, such as jobs, marriage, kids, a mortgage.

After college I was not allowed to participate in protests or even so much as sign a petition no matter how worthy the cause. I was a journalist and journalists give up certain rights and freedoms other citizens have. Journalists have opinions, certainly, but they must keep them in check if they want to keep their jobs. Of course, journalists who are paid to give their opinion, well that’s a different story.

So this protest thing was sort of foreign to me. As a reporter I had covered my share of demonstrations, but they ranged from peaceful gatherings to the odd guy in a monkey suit chained to a bike rack in front of a federal courthouse.

Music and protest

In Calama, it was all about music. This protest to force the central government in Santiago to give Calama 5 percent of the revenues generated by the copper mines in the region was more like a folk and rock concert than anything else. In between pronouncements and denouncements of the administration of President Sebastián Piñera, bands took the stage and rocked the crowd. The headliners, the Chilean band Sol y Lluvia, had the flag-waving, mostly young audience jumping up and down in unison and singing along. Sol y Lluvia formed in the 1980s and became popular for their brand of music that mixes modern and traditional instruments, but also because of their strong opposition to the dictatorship of General Augusto Pinochet. I really enjoyed this band. And so did the rest of the audience on hand.

Besides the bands, there were cheerleaders doing acrobatic stunts, men and women in strange costumes, jugglers on stilts, flag dancers, loud vuvuzelas left over from World Cup Soccer, and an assortment of other acts that pleased the audience. This was the most excitement I had seen in Calama in the nearly two months I’ve been here.

Freed mayor speaks

Now, I refer to the amassed crowd as an audience rather than protesters because the event evolved into a street festival. Sure, there were some tense moments, but few and far between. At Chuquicamata, the largest open-pit mine in the world, Calama Mayor Esteban Velásquez and several others were arrested and put in jail for several hours after they blocked the entrance to the mine to stop vehicles from entering and exiting in a failed effort to shutdown mining operations. According to eyewitnesses, several of the demonstrators who showed up at the mine around 4 a.m., were forcibly removed by riot police brought in from the town of Iquique, about five hours drive north. The mayor and the others were freed after boisterous demonstrators turned up at the police station to demand their release. Other demonstrators claimed they and others were beaten by riot police at the mine.

Also at the Calama Shopping Mall, which chose to ignore the citywide work stoppage, demonstrators blocked access and refuse to allow potential shoppers to enter. Mall security and police worked out an agreement with the demonstrators to allow the mall to stay open until noon. The protesters agreed and promptly at noon were back at the mall chanting and turning away people who were trying to do some shopping.

Several demonstrators at the mall tried to get me to join them and I pointed out that I was not Chilean and the penalty for foreigners participating in demonstrations in Chileis automatic deportation. The women said they would protest my deportation. Funny.

 

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Sol y Lluvia

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‘More Forceful’ Revolution Awaits A New Day In Chile

Sunset.

The night is still.

I lay in bed –

– my mind at rest.

The only sound I hear –

– the echo of my breath.

Distant drums break the night’s silence. It’s a rhythm that halts and haunts. I’ve heard these distant drums before. They come regularly with nightfall.

Just before the sun starts its descent and completely vanishes in the horizon of the silent desert, the syncopated slow bang begins, traveling like a creeping fog. I don’t know the reason for the drumming. I do remain curious and someday will have an answer. But as I lay here in bed studying the cracked ceiling, there’s that low rhythmic sound again of a single bass drum.

Boom. Boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Boom. Boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Boom. boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Tonight, the drumming carries a special message – or so I imagine that it does – a message that revolt is in the air. A promise that it will come with the new day.

Boom, boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Boom, boom…

My breathing locks in. I inhale with each BOOM, BOOM, BOOM of the drum, and exhale with every BOOM, BOOM. Then I wonder: what this city some like to refer to as “Calamity” instead of its true name Calama, will look like come Monday when its people take to the streets to stage a mass demonstration against the federal government in Santiago.

The leaders of Calama and residents say with the protest they hope to send a strong message to the federal government – that the people of Calama have clear demands and will no longer be ignored.

Translation: Use the copper to educate. Four students dead.

Long before I got here, there’s been protest in the air in Chile. Students have been on the streets for months, clashing with riot police in their quest for public education reform. In a nutshell, they want free college education for all.

Some of the demonstrations have been peaceful. Others have been extremely violent. Police have been seriously attacked and students severely beaten. Protesters have overturned and burned vehicles. Public and private property has been set ablaze and windows smashed. Trying to extinguish fires, firefighters have also been attacked. Molotov cocktails, rocks and all sorts of projectiles have been hurled at police vehicles with serious consequences and police have responded with tear gas and water canons.

School sessions at universities have virtually ground to a halt as the massive protests have spread across the country. The students are well-organized and prepared to disrupt. The government has rejected the students’ calls for free education for all Chileans, and so the students have increasingly grown more angry and violent. Chileans tell me they don’t like the violence that has interrupted day-to-day life and seemingly become part of the nation’s fabric.

Labor unions have also staged acts of civil disobedience for their own gains. And now, an entire city – Calama – plans a shutdown and challenge the government in Santiago, over money.

With the sunrise on Monday, another gauntlet of police will be on the streets of a Chilean city. This time the demonstrators will not be a bunch of idealistic youths, but city officials and residents of all stripes in Calama. This, you might say, will be a revolt organized by the establishment. And what do they want? A bigger piece of the pie.

Calama and the surrounding region is where the nation’s copper mines are located. With Chile’s standing as the largest copper producer in the world – the largest open-pit copper mine in the world is in Chile – the region draws billions of dollars in copper export revenue. But according to residents of Calama, most of the money goes directly to the federal government, which then decides how it should be spent.

According to the people of Calama, barely a drop is spent to improve Calama. The good people of Calama want a greater chunk of that revenue generated from the copper mines to stay in Calama. Calama needs it, they say, to improve the overall appearance of the city.

Posters plastered all over Calama announce the protest August 29, 2011

There is no argument Calama desperately needs improvements in its infrastructure and appearance. It’s one of the dirtiest, smelliest, ugliest cities I’ve ever seen. And I won’t get any argument from the people who were born and reared here. They’re the ones who say that Calama is the worst city in Chile and they blame the government for taking and not giving, at least not sufficiently.

There is plenty of money in the pockets of people in Calama thanks to the mining industry in the region. But many of the people who work in Calama escape to their homes in Santiago, Antofagasta and Iquique, or other towns miles away. That’s where they really spend their money. Most, if not all, the copper mine executives work Monday through Thursday in Calama and live in housing provided by the mines, then fly or drive home on Thursday, homes far away from Calama. They wouldn’t think of relocating their families to Calama. For them, Calama is just a place that allows them a well-paying job. So they take their paychecks to other cities they call home.

Similarly, the government takes most of the revenue out of the Calama area to be spent nationwide. Calama residents say that’s unfair, that their city bears the brunt of the mining operations, is severely impacted by the mines and the people they draw, and for that reason Calama should be allowed more of the money generated by the mines.

And so the stage is set for civil action Monday, in a bid to retain some greater portion of the billions of dollars generated by the copper mines.

After months and years of talking to Santiago and getting nowhere, Calama has decided to take it to the streets. It will be the second time they stage a citywide protest – the last one was in June – but city officials promise this time action will be “more forceful” so that “everyone in Chile hears us” and so that “we get a more concrete response from the government.”

Most businesses will not open on Monday. Marches through city streets and rallies will be held. And the aggrieved students fighting for a free education will sure to join in. And the “more forceful” approach to be taken?

As I lay here in bed, the drums banging slowly, accompanied by the echo of my breath, I think “this is Chile,” and that “more forceful” approach could really mean something – or nothing.

Off the wall?: "Students For A Right" to a free education

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Don’t Even Go There!

It’s been a year since I met Anna and Michal. Seems as long since I’ve thought of them.

The young married couple from Bydgoszcz, Poland, wrote me last August to ask if they could stay two days at my Miami condominium that overlooks Biscayne Bay. They had just flown to the Magic City from Honduras on their way back to Poland after an amazing two years traveling around the world.

When I received their request for lodging through the www.couchsurfing.org travel and hospitality Web site, I initially thought to say no because of the short notice and I was already hosting two women from Berlin, Germany. Anna and Michal weren’t arriving in weeks or even days but in a matter of hours. Although some members of the Couchsurfing community are able to receive guests on short notice, my schedule simply did not always allow for that. But when I looked at their couchsurfing profile, I rechecked my schedule and quickly agreed to host them. Two people who had just traveled around the world, I just had to meet. I needed some insight, as I was planning my own global adventure.

Anna and Michal on the Western Coast of Australia

The photographs of their two-year trip spoke to me, and so did their travel philosophy, which was similar to mine – independent, unstructured, free-spirited. And by golly, after two years of planes, trains, boats and automobiles, and of climbing and jumping out of and off of things, these two people, with no place to stay for their two-day layover in Miami, needed any comfort Miami could provide.

With the two women from Berlin, the guest bedroom was already taken. Michal and Anna had no problem sleeping in the living room – she on the couch, he on an air mattress and sleeping bag on the floor. It beat the alternative: pitching a tent in a park or some parking lot behind a McDonald’s. At least that’s what they said they were considering. That may have worked fine in Vanuatu or the Australian Outback, but not a good idea in urbanized Miami.

When Michal and Anna arrived, I instantly took to them. Great sense of humor, a real sense of adventure, a fearless spirit, and as I pointed out at the time, newlywed love for each other even after two years on the road together. Don’t people who travel that long together want to kill each other? 🙂

Chilling out in the living room, Michal and Anna showed me some of the videos and photographs they shot during their journey, and all I could say was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!

With each picture, Anna and Michal shared stories. They had spent much of their time traveling to remote areas of just about every country they visited. And they toured some countries I could only dream about.

With breathtaking video footage and photographs as evidence, Michal and Anna didn’t have to convince me that those places were worth visiting. But alas, I told them that as an American some of those places would not be safe for me to go traipsing through. Parts of Pakistan and Afghanistan or any part of Iran, which views Americans as a threat to their society, is unsafe for anyone holding a U.S. passport.

In some countries around the world, Americans are taken hostage, decapitated or shot on sight, I reminded my well-traveled and well-meaning guests.

“Ah yes,” Anna said jokingly. “Half the world hates you.”

Shane Bauer and Joshua Fattal in Iran

This week I’ve been thinking about that “hate” Anna spoke about. I wouldn’t go so far as to say “half the world” is unsafe for Americans, but when I was mapping my global adventure, it wasn’t easy. Flying from country to country is easier given you are hopping over hostile territory. But trying to go by road, as I am, from one country to the next creates some logistical problems. How do I get from Egypt to Israel then Jordan then Turkey with Syria in the way? And from Russia to India with Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan and China as obstacles? And to Thailand with Myanmar ahead?

Unlike my dear Polish friends, I had to be more conscious of where I was and was not welcomed. Iraq? Pakistan? Afghanistan? Iran? No way. For them, when asked, all they had to say they’re from Poland and nobody cared. If anything, my guests joked, some had never even heard of Poland 🙂

Anna and Michal and countless other travelers I have met have no such concerns over geopolitical conflicts. Iran has no beef with Poland, so a Polish person can crisscross that country and feel very welcomed, as Michal and Anna were. I’d probably be arrested, thrown in prison and tried for spying, as e Shane Bauer and Joshua Fattal were.

The reported conviction of the two American hikers this week is what made me think of Anna and Michal, who now run a family owned hotel in picturesque Tlen in Bory Tucholskie National Park, about 60 kilometers north of their hometown, Bydgoszcz. Our conversation a year ago resonates with me today. Sure, I wish I could freely travel to Cuba, or see the antiquities in Iran, or see what Syria looks like from the ground.

People have asked me if the South America part of my trip includes Venezuela. The truth is, with all the hate, the disrespect shown to U.S. presidents, the going out-of-the-way to befriend sworn enemies of the United States, I don’t feel I would be welcomed there. Unfortunately for the Venezuelan people who would love to get their hands on some of the billions in “yanqui” tourists dollars, many Americans now view Venezuela as an enemy of the United States and refuse to support the government of Hugo Chavez. So as a result, my world travel looks very different from that of say, someone from neutral Switzerland.

I have to be very alert about shifting sands in the global community. Egypt in an uproar? Change in Tunisia? Unrest in Morocco? How does that impact my plans to travel there as an American?

Shane and Josh, unfortunately, apparently didn’t give serious thought to location. If I’m hiking anywhere near the Iranian border, I want to make damn sure where I’m standing. Friends and relatives say the hikers may have been forced by Iranian border guards into Iran, but again, if you’re that close to Iran, well, you’re just too close.

Personally, I wouldn’t have found myself hiking even in Iraq, which is still unstable, as witnessed by a string of recent bombings. Time and time again, Americans around the world do foolish things and expose themselves to danger. Recall the case of the American journalists who unknowingly entered North Korea. If the border is unmarked, and the avowed enemy is on the other side, stay as far away from it as you can!

According to the Islamic Republic of Iran News Network, an official television station, Shane and Josh were convicted of illegal entry into the country and for espionage. They were sentenced to eight years in prison. Their Iranian lawyer said he was not aware of the convictions and sentences and that he would inquire. Really Mr. Lawyer? Are you sitting down on the job or is the Iranian system of justice simply so flawed that the defense lawyer is not aware that his clients are going to jail – for eight years on top of the two already served while awaiting trial.

The two men, who have been held in Tehran’s infamous Evin prisonfor more than two years, said they were hiking near the Iraq-Iran border in the Kurdistan region when a soldier of unknown nationality told them to approach. It was at that point they learned they had crossed into Iran, which shares an unmarked border with Iraq. They were with Bauer’s fiancée, Sarah Shourd, who was released for “humanitarian” and medical reasons on $500,000 bail in September 2010, after more than a year under arrest and months in solitary confinement. Her case is still pending, according to Iranian officials.

Sarah Shourd

I do share Shane and Josh’s passion for learning about other cultures and travel. I understand why they would want to venture, especially Shane who like me is a freelance journalist always on the trail of a good story. I feel a kinship with the two backpackers and anyone who looks at their travel videos and photographs will immediately see that these guys are no spies – they’re just a couple of backpackers, like me, just trying to see the world and hopefully make it better. They ought to be released now!

As for me and my travels, maybe I ought to start telling people I’m Polish. Nah! It won’t work.

A profile of Josh and Shane from CNN:

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