Posts Tagged With: Kraków

Sometimes No Planning Leads To Nice Surprises

 

Runners in the Krakow Marathon run "for Sparta!"

Runners in the Krakow Marathon run “for Sparta!”

 

It takes a certain amount of planning to have a fun vacation, but you can have just as much fun, and discover much more, by not doing much planning beyond arranging transportation to get there.  Lately, I’ve been doing very little in the way of reserving transportation or a place to stay. I decide – often last-minute – where I want to go and just get up and go. When I get there, I walk around the city or town,  do a bit of consultation with locals on the street, and decide from there where to stay. It doesn’t always work out in my favor, but more often than not it does, either in the way of meeting new people right off the street or finding a great bargain recommended by a local.

For Sparta!!!

For Sparta!!!

When I travel this way, I take into account the city, the season and the time of day I will arrive. I would not suggest you go to Paris or New York in spring, for instance, without a place to stay already pre-arranged. You just might end up sleeping at the bus terminal or overpaying for a hotel walking  in cold. If you are not an experienced  and resourceful traveler, book everything in advance. You  have been warned. 🙂

I’ve come close to sleeping on a park bench, but it so far has not happened. I am pretty resourceful and not shy about approaching strangers. I love talking to strangers, in fact. Usually, in case of emergency, I travel with a tent. Twice I used it – pitched it out in the woods in Argentina right next to a lake and it was amazing waking up alone in the woods, with just the sound of birds chirping and fish jumping. And rustlings by curious wildlife in the middle of the night. Sleeping out in the woods alone is not for the cowardly. 🙂

On royal grounds in Vienna!

On royal grounds in Vienna!

I also used it once in Colombia. There I slept on a sandy beach. But I was not alone. Other “campers” were nearby. But it was beautiful waking up with a view of the Atlantic Ocean, waves lapping and ships in the distance. Took a morning swim. It was nice.  kra3

Opening night of bar in ruins of vacant building in Budapest. With Irene of Milan, Italy.

Opening night of bar in ruins of vacant building in Budapest. With Irene of Milan, Italy.

A few days ago, I made one of those last-minute decisions to travel from Poland to some other place in Europe. I wasn’t sure where to go, but I intended to hitchhike, meaning no need to book flights, trains or buses to get there. I would simply decide in which direction I wished to travel, find a good spot to hitchhike and go. I love and I loathe hitchhiking. I have to be in the mood to do it, because sometimes it can take hours before someone offers a ride. On a good day, it’s a matter of minutes. When it happens quickly, it’s great. You often meet interesting people along the way all while traveling free. A word about hitchhiking: Do as much research about the dos and don’ts before you try it, especially if you are traveling alone and especially if you are woman. It is no accident women get ride offers almost instantly from men. They are just being men interested in the opposite sex. There are many things you can do to stay safe, but again, you have to do your own research.

Running waiter

Running waiter

When I decided to go, my roommate stepped up and said he, too, wanted to take a trip and that he would drive his car. That took care of the need to hitchhike. After changing our plans a few times, we decided to head south to Krakow, Poland, then to Budapest, Hungary; Bratislava, Slovakia; Vienna, Austria; Prague, Czech Republic; and finally back to Poland.

Hope his prayers were answered and he finished the race

Hope his prayers were answered and he finished the race

Doing minimal planning can produce some amount of stress if you are easily rattled by your circumstances. We decided to couch surf but oftentimes we did not land a couch until the very last minute. If you are the type of person who freaks out when every little thing seems to be going wrong, this sort of travel is not for you. And if you are traveling with someone who gets a panic attack because you don’t have a place to stay come nightfall, well, at the next stop ditch them and travel alone. Or don’t travel with them again – ever! 🙂

On the border with Slovakia, arrived Hungary!

On the border with Slovakia, arrived Hungary!

The cool thing about deciding last-minute, we encountered some cool events in some of the cities we visited. In Krakow, there was the Krakow Marathon. In Budapest, the Red Bull airshow and opening night of a very cool bar. And all along the way, meeting new and interesting people who took us to some cool places.

We found the Trololo guy in Krakow :)

Mateusz and I found the Trololo guy in Krakow 🙂

The idea behind this type of travel is not to be stressed over schedules, check-ins and check-outs. Just to relax and enjoy the time. And if you don’t see everything there is to see, so what?

Mateusz loading up in Vienna

Mateusz loading up in Vienna

 

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Poland: A Beautiful Start, A Violent End

For reasons I will later explain, I am back in Poland. For almost two months, I’ve been hesitant to tell the world what I am now about to tell the world. No, it’s not some deep, dark secret. Sorry to disappoint. But it’s something I’ve largely kept to myself and shared only with a small circle of family and friends and a few acquaintances along the way. If you love sweet, happy  stories filled with tender moments then perhaps you should stop reading now. This is not a sappy tale. It is a story of a day gone awry. A day full of euphoria  that ended with a monumental kick to the face and some serious heart-pounding. It’s also a cautionary tale of a clash of cultures, one day in Poland, one day early last October. Ready?

It was a beautiful autumn day in Krakow, unusually warm for the time of year. So warm that neighbors opened windows to let a slight autumn breeze clear the stale air out of their homes. It was a day to hang laundry out on balconies to take advantage of the bright sun. It was a day made for a walk in the park with an ice cream cone in hand. Essentially, it was a summer day.

I was staying with a couple of friends of friends in Kazimierz, the historic Old Jewish Quarter that was one of Europe’s largest Jewish ghettos prior to World War II when German Nazis marched in and marched out thousands of Jews in this community. They were taken to Birkenau and Auschwitz concentration camps. That is, the ones who were not gunned down on the spot. Auschwitz-Birkenau took in people by the millions from all over Europe. They were subjected to unspeakable cruelty and gassed or hanged or shot in cold blood. When I visited Auschwitz-Birkenau it left me with a chill in much the same way when I landed at Elmina Castle in Ghana, where millions of Africans were held, tortured into submission and placed on ships to be taken to the “new world” as slaves. Never again, the world sometimes cries, but as history has recently shown, “never again” sometimes are empty words.

Krakus Mound

Krakus Mound

Kazimierz today is a place rich with history. It maintains many of those historic sites where man’s inhumanity to man played out. But plenty of shops and restaurants and bars and even nightclubs now occupy some of those buildings that were spared from the destruction the Nazis dealt to other cities across Europe, including Warsaw. The Germans considered Krakow to be historically a German city and so did not indiscriminately rain bombs on the city and rig buildings left still standing with explosives to erase their history. So today much of Krakow’s centuries old buildings still stand, having survived World War II. It’s a beautiful city, Krakow, and on this beautiful day I set out to explore it beyond the usual touristic haunts.

My host suggested several places: an old church in an old neighborhood just across the Vistula River. A walk along a park lined with nice, grand houses in a neighborhood that is just below a mysterious mound. From Krakus Mound, which is located high above Krakow, you can see the whole city, a spectacular 360-degree view. The mound, which dates back to the 8th Century, has puzzled archaeologists for years. They can only speculate about its purpose. At first it was thought it contained the remains of King Krakus, founder of Kraków, the ruler of the tribe of Lechitians, (Poles). But it was dug up and it turned out not to be a burial site at all. Instead, what they found inside was a full-grown tree. The tree, for whatever reason, was buried under the mound, and again, nobody knows why. It is the oldest mound in the city. There are several others, but they are not as grand and don’t offer as amazing a view as this one. Krakus mound is lushly green all around but on the top – which is not visible from below – is bald – just dirt with a marker at its center.

So I spent this day  walking along the banks of the Vistula River, toward the bridge that would take me deep into neighborhoods tourist buses simply do not venture. I was exhilarated and a bit tired from all the walking, but glad I had found the neighborhood, the church, the park and a few more treasures along the way. And as that bright sun was ready to set, I decided to head back home. On my way back, I noticed a directional sign that pointed to the Schindler’s Factory Museum. According to the sign, it was only a few meters away. My feet were burning from all that walking, but I decided to go to the museum anyway. Another unscheduled detour that could lead to more discovery and adventure. Cool.

As I walked down the nearly empty street listening to music on my iPod, I suddenly had company: two tough, half-drunk-looking guys. One of them – a shorter, more muscular one, held a bottle of Zubr, a Polish beer. He walked right up to me left side. The taller, bigger guy remained a step behind, with a goofy smile. Both had approached from behind. zubr

The shorter guy next to me was saying sometime in Polish and whatever it was, he was clearly saying it with anger. After I repeatedly told him I did not speak or understand the language, he pointed to the bottled beer – amber in color – and then made a gesture  to his neck. I didn’t understand. I thought he was stroking his skin. Ah, was he trying to convey sometime about my skin color?.  The gesture in the United States means “stop” or “quit”. At that point, he said a few more words with an even more serious look and at that time I quit smiling and firmly told him that I don’t speak Polish. When I quickened my pace and I tried to put my earphones back in my ears, he grabbed my arm very aggressively and I pulled away. His friend behind shoved me with what felt like a closed fist and I went flying forward. Recognizing the gravity of the situation, I immediately went into gain the upper hand mode: I came around full force with a kick to the face of the shorter guy and he dropped the beer and fell to the sidewalk clutching his face and screaming. The bigger guy behind me tried to come at me – it was like a linebacker coming at an unprotected quarterback. Wasn’t a fair fight even with him alone,  as he outweighed me by at least 100 pounds. I picked up the broken bottle and shouting as loud as I could, I said “COME ON! COME ON! TRY IT!”  I was hoping to attack as much attention as possible, perhaps people would come to their windows. With his friend on ground, his hand over his eye, Big Guy instead rushed over to his friend, snatched him up and they rushed across the street pass an old woman who stopped to see what the noise was all about. As they ran passed her, she said something to them but they kept going. A bit dazed and my heart pumping, I tried to figure out in which direction to go. I was in a strange neighborhood and worried that these guys lived in the neighborhood and would return with reinforcements. I thought it was best to continue on my way to Schindler’s Factory, as it was closer than trying to make it back across the bridge.

On top of Krakus Mound and on top of the world...but later this day....

On top of Krakus Mound and on top of the world…but later this day….

As I ran to the museum I saw five people outside a store who were speaking English. I told them what happened and they said their tour guide was inside the store and they were going to Schindler’s Factory and I should wait and go with them. The guide, a Polish woman, emerged from the store and we told her what happened. She then told me the area is not safe – something confirmed later by others – and that she would never come down there alone. I was surprised about this given the museum is a big draw for tourists. Granted, arrive at the museum in large tour groups, or directly on guided tours. The tour guide advised I take a taxi back. There were many taxis waiting right outside the museum.  Since I was no longer in the mood for a museum, I decided to leave and walked back to the bridge with a Polish man who had emerged from the museum. Once I made it to the bridge over the Vistula River, I knew I’d be safe. My injuries were rather minor compared to that one guy, I’m sure. But the lasting injury for me  is to my psyche. Every time some guy approaches me on the street to beg for money or wanted to speak to me – usually to get money – I get jumpy. It happened just a few days ago in Warsaw as I was walking in the center of town and three men were standing near a doorway. One of them spotted me and immediately came at me speaking in French. I know he was trying to ask for money. I kept my fast pace and told he I didn’t understand anything he was saying. “Thank you” he said, and returned to his friends.

A bridge over the Vistula River in Krakow

A bridge over the Vistula River in Krakow

In the year-plus I’ve so far been traveling, even across reportedly dangerous South America, it was the first time I’ve ever been met with an assault and had to defend myself. Yet, I hesitated sharing this story with the masses because the truth is the people of Poland have been amazing. They are super nice, helpful, giving. At least that’s been my experience. This one incident could have happened anywhere. And still, today I’m left unsure whether this incident was just a big misunderstanding. People in Poland now tell me that the gesture to the neck the guy made means “let’s get drunk” or “I’m drunk” or “let’s go drink” or something to that effect.

So was he trying to communicate to me that he either wanted me to buy him a beer or wanting to go drink with him? And since refusing to drink with someone in Poland is considered rude and disrespectful in some quarters, did he feel disrespected when after his drink gesture I appeared to try to ignore him and tune him out by going back to my music? And his grabbing my arm was a way to convey that my behavior was unacceptable? And his friend punching me in the back really a reaction to him thinking that I was being aggressive with his friend? Did this all escalate because of our inability to communicate? Did they assume that I knew what the neck gesture meant? Questions, questions, questions. I don’t have the answers. All I know is that on that beautiful autumn day in Krakow, the game changed. And with it, I changed. I returned to Poland – after traveling south to Austria and Slovakia – to do an interview and write an article for the English-language Warsaw Voice. I also had to return because I had left a backpack behind. But returning to Poland has confirmed that it’s a great country full of wonderful people – and yes, there are a few bad apples – but don’t we have those everywhere?

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A Bridge To Love In Krakow

Locks of love

I don’t quite know where this tradition started, but I’ve seen in in different countries. Hundreds, even thousands of padlocks on some fence or fixture. In Krakow, Poland, the pedestrian bridge across the Vistula River is where this expression of love is in full swing, but with a twist: After the lovers lock the padlock onto the bridge, they toss the key into the river. So now there are hundreds, even thousands of padlock keys at the bottom of the river.  

Some of these couples are pretty creative with their padlocks, decorating them and personalizing them in ways that suit their lifestyles, such as a couple that we can only assume are cyclists because they affixed a bike lock. Others have used some cool-looking locks that appear to be centuries old, right down to the rust.

But what happens when the love is gone and these couples separate, whatever the reason? Apparently some don’t believe in forgetting the locks and leaving well alone. Some have returned to the bridge and obviously spent a lot of time prying the locks right off the wire mesh, damaging the bridge, as you see in some of the photos. To go to such drastic steps,  somebody must have really pissed somebody else off, like real bad. Maybe the city of Krakow should invest in bolt cutters and just place them at each end of the bridge in much the same way we place fire extinguishers in public places. A sort of save the bridge from scorned lovers measure.

Broken heart = broken lock = broken bridge

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