Posts Tagged With: travel

Marred By Plans

It was just one of those days that did not go according to plan. In retrospect, I should have just hopped on a bus and gone to San Pedro de Atacama, a village about an hour away that draws thousands of visitors because of its natural beauty and archeological importance.

My weekend plan was to simply get myself settled in Calama: shop for groceries, wash some clothes, do some sprucing up in my room and the house. Most of this never came to be after the call came.

On the line was Javier, who runs the language lab at the International Institute. He said a student who had canceled her English lessons the previous day wanted to pick up the lessons at 11 a.m.  – in about a half hour from the moment I received the call on my day off! I hesitated. I reminded Javier it was my day off. I said I had things to do.  It’s only one class, he said, one hour of my time. Rats!

The muck mucks at the institute have a habit of calling the teachers last-minute on their days off to come in to work, I was warned. Stand firm. Hold your ground. Say no. And I could have refused, but less than a week on the job as an English teacher I decided this once – and only this once – would give up part of my day and on such short notice to rush in to work because, as I suspect, someone dropped the ball. This was my gift to the muck mucks. I will give 100 percent during my regularly scheduled work hours – Monday through Thursdays, with minimum 12-hour days on Tuesdays and Wednesdays – but come Friday, Saturdays and Sundays, that would be my time to recover from those very long workdays and to use as I please – not to report to work again with no compensation. That’s not helping me and it certainly would not be helping the institute as if I allowed this to continue I would turn up for work exhausted. They certainly don’t want that?

So my roommate Zack was in the shower. I had to wait my turn. I had about 15 minutes to spare to get to the office. Fortunately, it is just across the street from the house. A walk across a dirt field and I’m there. Still, in and out the shower, into clothes, grab all my teaching materials, out the door, takes time. And yet, I managed to get to work in time. And of course, the student is late.

I’m not one for excuses. Chileans walk with a bag full of excuses. The main thing about them is that they’re always late. They laugh it off as a Chilean thing. And nobody apologizes for being late or for making you wait or making you late. “I’m Chilean” is the closest thing to an apology.

But I’m not going to beat up on Chileans on this. It’s frankly common in most Latin American countries. And because Miami is a very Latin city, it’s common in Miami, too. So I’m used to it. You just have to grin and bear as much as you can. Patience. Lots of patience is required.

So my student shows up 15 minutes late and she wants my personal history: where am I from? How did you learn Spanish? Do you like Calama? Fine, fine, but I tell her to ask the questions in English. She struggles with a few of the words but she gets through the questions. Now let’s begin the lessons.

Slightly more than an hour later I leave the institute, head home to quickly empty my backpack, and head for the grocery store. I will use the empty backpack to carry the groceries home. It’s a bit of a walk from the house to the store. But it’s a beautiful sunny day and I don’t mind walking.

I get to Lider, the Wal-Mart-like grocery store – which I then learn is actually owned by Wal-Mart. But where are the shopping carts? The store is packed with people. I ask a security guard about the shopping carts and he points to an empty spots where they usually are and says that there aren’t any and that my best bet is to go down to the parking garage and try to find one there. Oh-k!

I walk to the underground garage and find that dozens of other people have the same idea – stalking shoppers leaving the store – for their shopping carts. I try a few times but every person I ask already has someone waiting for the cart. I spend a good 15 minutes walking from person to person exiting the store. Nope, sorry, the cart is taken.

I go back upstairs to the store and still no carts. I decide well, maybe today is not a day to shop. I will pick up as much as I can carry and come back not on a weekend – maybe Monday when all these folks are at work. So much for grocery shopping.

Laundry detergent was high on my list and it was one of the items I was able to carry without the benefit of a shopping cart. Cool, so when I get home I can at least do my laundry and have some clean clothes. No such luck! Saturday is was also apparently the day my other two roommates, Thomas and Pamela – a couple from what I like to call “the other Portland” – Portland, Maine – had a load of laundry already in the washer and a full basket in waiting. Hmmm…Oh-k! Maybe I should clean up around here, tidy up the room a bit. Nah! You know what? I think I’ll go back to bed instead. I probably never should have gotten out of bed in the first place. Will get it all done next week. But no matter what, by weekend, San Pedro, here I come! At least that’s the plan.

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Izhcayluma: The Inca Gods Must Be Crying

Izhcayluma, now known as Vilcabamba, was a playground for Inca royalty

Waiting sometimes gives us a great deal of time to think. But we as a species hate waiting. Impatience takes over and crankiness takes hold. In extreme situations anger builds and it’s unleashed.

On a long journey you have to learn to keep cool. Patience. Use the wait time in productive ways.

Ten minute wait for a taxi, the hotel manager said. Immediately I wondered how I could productively spend those 10 minutes. Ah, I need the exact address of the hostel in Vilcabamba where I was headed.  A couple of days earlier in Cuenca I had seen a hotel brochure. The brochure to the Izhcayluma Hosteria contained not only the address but a map with specific directions. It won’t take more than 10 minutes to walk over to the Cigale Hostel  and Restaurant where they had a bunch of the brochures on a table. I told the Victoria Hotel manager I’d be right back and headed over to the Cigale. Good thing I did.

My original plan to get to Vilcabamba from Cuenca was to take a taxi from the Victoria Hotel to the airport ($2.50). From the Cuenca airport, just across the street, I would then take a minivan that carries up to 15 passengers to Loja ($12). Then from Loja, hop on another bus for a 45-minute ride to Vilcabamba ($3). It would have taken my 7 hours to get to Vilcabamba at a total cost of $17.50.

The 150-year-old Vilcabamba Church in the town square.

But as I reached for an Izhcayluma brochure at the Cigale, I noticed posted on the wall a flier for a minivan shuttle service from the Cigale directly to the Izhcayluma. For $15 and in only four hours I would be delivered directly to my hotel in Vilcabamba! No need to taxi to the airport in Cuenca. No Need to change buses. My trip from Cuenca to Vilcabamba shortened by 3 hours! Obviously a better deal.

The waiter at the Cigale handed me the restaurant phone to make the reservation. Done. I rushed back over to the Victoria to announce my change of plans to the front desk. When I got there he had already placed my backpack in a waiting taxi. I approached the taxi, gave him .50 cents for his wait and told him I no longer needed his services. Off to the Cigale I went to wait for the shuttle to Vilcabamba. Departure time, 1:45 p.m. It was 12 noon. More waiting. I fired up the laptop.

In no time the driver of the van and his assistant entered the Cigale. They asked if I was going to Vilcabamba. They said we’d be ready to go shortly since I was the only passenger. Really? An entire van all to myself? What luxury!

Keep in mind that travel in South America and many other developing parts of the world are often cramped, smelly, dirty and uncomfortable. This was a major score. In three months of traveling across the continent I had never had the pleasure of having transportation all to myself. This was heaven.

Tire goes flat during trip from Cuenca to Vilcabamba.

And heaven it was. The journey to Vilcabamba was a real pleasure. I spent it chatting with the couple – the driver and his assistant. They told me stories about Vilcabamba. How “the gringos” had taken over the town. How the village was a mecca for all sorts of kooks, including a man who swears the world will end in 2012 and convinced a visiting friend to help him build an arc. The man maintains that the entire world except Vilcabamba will be destroyed. Why Vilcabamba? They did not know. But that’s the reason he came to the village. I really want to meet this man and see his arc, which I’m told is complete. He is currently stocking it with food and plans to start adding animals – two of every kind, of course – as the end of the world grows closer. I really want to meet this guy! Then again, maybe not.  I’ve already met my share of natural healers, tarot card readers, hug circles, self-described Messiahs, hippies, potheads, lunatics, dropouts, and yes, retired gringos who make up more than three-quarters of Vilcabamba’s population. Needless to say, English is spoken here in abundance.

My private cabana space overlooks the mountains. The town is below, deep in a valley

Ecuadorians in Vilcabamba have grudgingly embraced the gringos. They include among “los gringos” Europeans, mostly Germans. But all foreigners to them are gringos. The gringos came to town and took over. They began to buy up property. A steal in their minds, but to Vilcabambans, they paid way too much. That drove up land and home prices. And drove out the locals. Soon, restaurants, shops and grocery stores that catered to the specific needs of the gringos began to crop up. Canned foods on shelves. Processed foods. Signs in restaurants and around town in English. Businesses geared toward tourism and touring. The entire make of the town rapidly changed. And the gringos are still coming. A huge development just for the gringos – no way locals can afford such home prices – is being built just outside of Vilcabamba. It’s Little U.S.A. in Ecuador. And the town that is known worldwide as a place where people lived well beyond 100 years of age is losing that. Their longevity was largely credited to their simple lifestyle, the natural foods they ate and the purity of the local water they drank. They’ve now started to eat and drink what the gringos eat and drink and it is taking its toll. Someday, Vilcabamba will no longer be able to claim its place in the world as the valley of longevity.

Unlike some other road trips, I arrived in Vilcabamba without any incident to report. We had a flat tire outside the town, I helped the driver change the tire and in 25 minutes we were on our way.

I settled in to my rustic cabin and marveled at the landscape. Izhcayluma – the name the Incas gave the place before it became Vilcabamba with the arrival of the Spaniards – you are breathtaking. No wonder so many outsiders have come here. And yet I can’t help but wonder if the Inca Gods are in tears over what this ancient and majestic land has now become.

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Vilcabamba, Ecuador

At Zoociedad in Cuenca with Mariutsi, Veronica, Lindsay and Paul. Cuenca was fun and interesting, but time to move on

Another hopefully not too crazy bus trip through the Andes Mountains. It’s been raining nonstop for the last two days and that can only mean one thing: rocks falling and landslides. This time I am taking a minivan, known locally as  a colectivo. It carries about 12 passengers and if you’re lucky it will be half that many so you can spread out. But more often than not it’s full and stuffed and stuffy. But it’s quicker than many of the buses that stop all along the way in every small town. At $12 it’s rather steep for Ecuador. I’m used to paying $2 to $6 for intercity transportation here. But I’m getting a late start and for that I must pay the price.
My destination is Vilcabamba, Ecuador, which has a large concentration of people more than 100 years old. Some say it’s the clean air. Some say it’s the lifestyle. I intend to find out.
I will actually try to relax in Vilcabamba – to regenerate. I am staying at the Izhcayluma Hosteria, which bills itself as a resort for backpackers. In other words, luxury at an affordable price. Here they will pamper backpackers. I plan to stay three days and probably won’t resist the beautiful trails and may well leave to the pool to go for a hike in the mountains. And of course I still have Peru ahead, much walking and hiking in my future.
Check back here. I am packing my overstuffed backpack now. I’ll tell you all about Vilcabamba and my journey there in the next post. Unless the land comes a sliding down 🙂

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