Posts Tagged With: Lima

In Peru, For Good Luck, Pinch A Black Person

I don’t remember how the subject even came up – I believe one of the U.S. Peace Corps volunteers I was having lunch with in Piura, Peru, asked if I had been pinched yet by total strangers since my arrival in Peru. She said in Peru, there is a superstition among some Peruvians that if they pinch a black person it will bring good luck to the person doing the pinching. Seriously?

Apparently, several African American Peace Corps volunteers based in Peru routinely experience this assault on their person in Peru. It may be something black or mixed race Peruvians are accustomed to or simply tolerate, but for blacks from the United States it’s not a welcome gesture, nor is it a compliment, as some of my own white friends recently suggested when I asked their opinion on this practice.

I generally try to keep an open mind when it comes to the customs of other societies. That doesn’t mean that I embrace them all. There are some things that are just downright wrong – or illegal – and I cannot morally support. This pinch a black person for good luck thing I immediately found offensive – then I took a step back to think about it – and after much thought, I am still of the mind that it’s offensive – not a compliment – an assault and deeply rooted in racism. An how did I reach this conclusion? I know my history.

Some people don’t want to hear it, but the fact is black people have a history of being treated as property – as a thing to be had rather than human – nothing more than a tool to be used. In addition to being enslaved to provide others with free labor, we as a people were subjected to a whole slew of indignities – we were “boys” and “girls” no matter our adult status. We were treated as less than, not to be respected. And as my dear friend Darlene pointed out in a Facebook discussion as to whether or not randomly walking up to a black person you don’t even know and pinching them for good luck is offensive or a compliment, there was a time when in the United States rubbing a black person’s head was said to bring good luck to a white person. Thank goodness such racist nonsense has faded away with slavery in the United States. But now I am in Peru. And in 2011, I can’t even sit quietly on a street corner without someone stepping up to pinch away.

A day after my Peace Corps pals told me of this pinch a black person for good luck thing, it was far out of my mind as I sat on a curb watching the world go by in the center of town. I had just done a lot of walking and was drinking a just-purchased bottled water. It was an extremely hot day in Piura despite the fact it was  officially winter. My mind was on my trip south to Lima and a bunch of other things I had to do to make the 15-hour journey happen. Then without word or warning it happened. A woman walked past me, pinched me on my upper arm, and kept going without stopping. My reaction scared the crap out of her and I am now glad it did. Next time she’ll think twice before she goes around pinching a complete stranger if only for their skin color. I asked her why she did what she did and got a nervous smile, nothing more. I raised my voice to be heard over the hustle and bustle of the area, as the gap between us grew. I yelled how would she like it if I walked  up to her and pinched her. How would she like it if total strangers kept doing that to her for the rest of her life. She quickened her pace. I stood up and started walking in her direction. How would you like it if your children were pinched by random people on the street? She turned the corner and vanished, but not before she took one last glance at me. The smile was gone. Good.

Now, some of you might think I overreacted. Think what you may. If you believe I should put up with strangers pinching me all day, for weeks, for months, for years, for the rest of my life, I’d like to lend you my shoes. Walk in them and talk to me as you lay dying. Tell me how much you enjoyed the experience and that life of being treated with such blatant disrespect.

Peru, is a beautiful country with a great history. I am by no means picking on Peru. Racism exists in other places, in my own United States. I’m sure I will come across other practices – other superstitions – that are just as offensive to me, if not more. But this experience is here and now, front and center. It’s one that took me by surprise. And I, for one, am not going to allow this assault on my person anywhere. Nobody should.

AN ARTICLE FROM THE BBC ON RACISM IN PERU

Categories: Rants and Raves | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Since February 11, 2011 – My Journey So Far

View South America in a larger map

I need to pick up the pace 🙂

Since I started this trip in February, this is the ground I’ve so far covered. It may not seem like much to you, but if you stretch out that line that shows the path – from Colombia, where I started – It would place me somewhere in Chile. I took a sort of roundabout trek through Colombia, heading north from Bogota, then south again from Cartagena. It was always my plan to spend up to two months in Colombia because the country is so incredibly fantastic.

I spent weeks in some places I really liked. In fact, it felt like I was a resident of those places and that’s been the general idea all along: to spend a good deal of time in places where I found some connection to the people and the place. And it’s been terrific.

I have said from the start this is not a sprint. It’s more of a stroll around the world. But I am conscious that I have to keep moving forward in some timely fashion. After all, it makes sense to reach certain places at certain times and for certain events (carnaval in Barranquilla, Colombia, for instance).

On Sunday, I leave Cuenca for Peru. Peru is one of those countries I’ve always wanted to visit mainly to achieve that age-old  rite of passage: Machu Picchu!

So Cuzco here I come. Lima and your purported best food in the world, I will be there soon to sample. Peru! Wow. I can hardly wait to see this magical place – the land of the Incas.

But first another border crossing – Ecuador to Peru – and this one by all accounts is an obstacle course of con-artists, thieves, corrupt border officials, tricky taxis, and all sorts of characters waiting to ripoff travelers passing through. I’ve heard and read the horror stories. I just have to pray it all goes well. I’m dumping clothing, toiletries and other items to lessen the weight of my backpack. I have to be able to move as quickly as possible through this region fellow travelers refer to as “the kill zone”.

The tricks the crooks use at this border are similar to the ones I witnessed at  the Colombia-Ecuador border crossing – money exchangers with fixed calculators; people offering to help you fill out customs forms to get their hands on your passport; counterfeit dollars; robbers pretending to be taxis; on and on.

I managed to make my way through that minefield on the Colombia-Ecuador frontier unscathed, unlike some other travelers who crossed at the same time I did. They fell for the rigged calculator tricks and lost a lot of money during money exchanges. Information, my friends, is power, and knowing what to expect and what to do before you get to the border is crucial to avoiding becoming a victim. Also, do not be afraid to be rude. Say “NO” forcefully and ignore people calling out to you, unless they are a police officer or customs official and can prove it with an official ID. Don’t allow people to grab you in a “friendly” manner. Tell them to let go and back off. In short, trust no one. If you keep your guard up through the border you will survive to enjoy the rest of your trip.

So let the journey to my next border crossing begin. A bus awaits.

Categories: asides, travels | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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