Posts Tagged With: Ecuador

My Nomadic Network

I have become them.

I am them.

I am part of it.

I am it.

Them.

I am now part of that loosely connected network of travelers with their entire lives stuffed in backpacks, roaming the world and bumping into each other in new wondrous places, in different countries and cities, across new oceans, mountains and deserts. We share phenomenal moments and fun here and there then pack up and part ways after days but sometimes weeks.

Our conversations are almost entirely about where we’ve been and where were going, and casually share itineraries sometimes with the aim to meet again elsewhere. E-mail, Facebook and other travel and social networks keep us connected.

After three months of travel it occurred to me today that I had unwittingly joined this global network of nomads. I was having breakfast in The Rock, a restaurant on Santa Cruz island in the Galapagos when a couple from London, England, entered. I looked at them and thought they looked familiar. They sat at the table next to mine and the woman immediately made the statement they had seen me several weeks earlier in Ecuador‘s capital city, Quito. I confirmed that indeed that was the case. We chatted about our travels past and future. Their itinerary was very similar to mine. They had left Quito, traveled to Guayaquil then the Galapagos and now were in route to Peru and onward south to other countries in South America.

During breaks in our conversation I looked out the large windows of the restaurant – a favorite hangout for foreigners on their way to someplace else – and in a span of less than an hour  recognized several other familiar faces. These were individuals I had seen and interacted with in other parts of Ecuador and Colombia.

Paul and I in Cajas National Park near Cuenca, Ecuador. Another time, another place, another country

We were all obviously on the same track, weighted down with backpacks. A nomadic network of  travelers saying hello, saying goodbye, and hello again.

In Cuenca, Ecuador, my current location, this network was evident as I exited La Cigale restaurant. A man who held the door for me asked if I had been in the Galapagos about two or three weeks ago. I responded in the affirmative and he said he had seen me on the island. A few more steps through Cuenca’s colonial center and across the street I saw three people I had met two months earlier in Taganga, a fishing village in Colombia. We had sat on the beach there having beers and watching a spectacular sunset. These sort of encounters have been repeated over and over again in just these short three months. Imagine how many people I will have met on the road  and new experiences shared over three years of travel?

One such person is Paul Ford of Austin, Texas. I met cool Texas dude Paul in Cartagena, Colombia, where we chilled, discussed travel plans, partied and got drunk together (celebrating the birthday of another person – Luis – whom I had previously met in Barranquilla, Colombia). Paul and I had some good and crazy times in our travels together and apart.

I left Paul in Cartagena after that crazy night of celebrating Luis’ birthday and didn’t know if I’d see him again. But this is the network and somehow it works to bring travelers together. He sent me an e-mail on the couchsurfing Web site. He said he was in Cuenca, which I had already decided would be my next destination once I left the Galapagos and returned to the mainland.

Now, Paul has sort of become my Cuenca sidekick. We have spent countless hours checking out the city, hiking in Cajas National Park, and meeting new people in the nomadic network. Through Paul  I have met others and introduced him to others. And so the network goes and grows. We meet, we greet, we travel and we meet again. Long term travel has created this global network of friends, all with people, places and many things in common. It’s been simply fantastic.

Natalie of Paris, France, my fellow travel companion for a day, tries to decide on a purchase in Sigsig, Ecuador.

The nomadic network works. For the most part, it consists of some of the most open-minded, coolest, most resourceful and resilient people on the planet. Traveling for months or years with everything you own in a backpack is not easy or glamorous. Getting from one place to another takes an awful lot of logistics, energy and will to continue. Most of us are traveling on a budget and sometimes end up sleeping in some scary places. When I’m not sleeping on somebody’s couch through couchsurfing, I am in a hostel or hotel or camping. Some hostels, well, let’s just say you get what you pay for. In Cuenca, after leaving my CS hosts’ swanky digs about 45 minutes by bus outside the city, I landed in a smelly, moldy hostel that lacked housekeeping. The house maid, I was told, simply didn’t show up for work. Sometimes you do what you have to do to stay within your budget. And sometimes because you’ve penny-pinched so much you can afford to splurge a bit, if nothing else, for your own health, both physical and mental.

My smelly hostel cost $10 a night. My current digs, The Victoria Hotel, costs $40 a night, and it’s worth every penny. It has afforded me a good night’s rest, a clean bathroom, a hot shower, and a place to take care of other important business to carry on traveling.

I love my nomadic network. When I leave Cuenca I will probably see Paul and other travelers in some other country, sharing new experiences with new people, largely locals, which also is fantastic. The network is what makes the journey fun and rewarding. It’s about people. It’s about some of the coolest people. It’s me.

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More Crazy Than Interesting

Parque Luis Cordero - Luis Cordero Park in Cuenca, Ecuador, where sometimes you can find a moment of sanity

Monday afternoon. I am strolling through Luis Cordero Park in the colonial center of Cuenca, enjoying the sunny day with a bit of people-watching and sightseeing.

The park is the heart of the town, where the marble cathedral looms large and buildings with arches shape the square. Ice cream vendors and artists that will draw your caricature call out to potential customers. The park is full of people of every ilk, all milling about. Like dozens of visitors, I have my camera in hand snapping pictures. Then I spot an indigenous woman in her beautiful pleated skirt, her dark green shawl rolled in a tube shape and wrapped around her waist. Just as other indigenous women, her dark hair is braided and the ends reach almost to her lower back. She is wearing a white blouse and her head is topped with the traditional straw hat. I raise my camera and start to snap her picture, the lens set on zoom. Got it. Beautiful. Great photo.

I walk around the park a bit and find an empty bench on which to sit. The bench is partly shaded by a tree. I relax and smile at the beautiful afternoon. The sun gently kisses my face. I’m pleased and I close my eyes.

Then suddenly and quite rudely the little ray of sun I was getting is gone. The sunshine is blocked by two women standing before me. When I open my eyes to see why my sun is gone, one of the women speaks, in Spanish. Both look serious.

WOMAN: “We want to know why you took our picture.”

ME: “Sorry to disappoint, but I did not take your picture. I took a picture of the buildings and an indigenous woman walking by.”

WOMAN: “We thought you took our picture.”

ME: “No, sorry. Plenty of interesting subjects in the park and I hardly thought you were one of them.”

WOMEN:  (they smile)

ME:  “But if you would like me to take your picture I will.”

WOMEN: (bigger smiles).

WOMAN: (still smiling). “No, no. It’s okay.”

They walk away, my sun returns.

TUESDAY afternoon. I’m in the same park, in a different section, closer to the cathedral. More gentle sunshine, a slight nip in the air. I am looking across the street at the vendors selling candles and other religious trinkets under the arches of the cathedral. Then a voice breaks my moment of silence.

WOMAN:  “Hello.”

ME: “Hello.”

Two women are standing in front of me. It’s the two women from the previous day.

WOMAN:  “You know you offended us yesterday.”

ME: “Why do you say that?”

WOMAN: “Because you said we were not interesting.”

ME: “I believe I said you were not interesting subjects.”

WOMAN: “What’s the difference? I don’t see the difference.”

ME:  “I don’t know you. You very well may be interesting as people, but to me as subjects for a photo – my photo – you were not interesting.”

OTHER WOMAN (finally speaks!): “So you think we are boring?”

ME: “I just told you I don’t know you. You are probably the life of the party.”

THE MORE OUTSPOKEN WOMAN: “So you think we are not good-looking enough for your photo?”

ME: “I never said that.”

WOMAN:  “I’ll have you know we are interesting.”

ME: “Okay.”

WOMAN: “Plenty of people want to take our picture, I’ll have you know.”

ME on the verge of laughter: “Okay.”

WOMAN: “That’s all we wanted to say.”

ME: “Yesterday you approached me in this park looking for a fight because you thought I took your picture. Today you are upset because I did not take your picture. I’m confused.”

WOMAN: “We are not upset that you did not take our picture. We were not happy that you said we were not interesting.”

ME: “Well, if yesterday I so much as thought you were not interesting, today I think you are crazy.”

LESS OUTSPOKEN WOMAN: “Crazy?”

ME: “Yes, crazy, so that makes you interesting.”

WOMEN: (laugh out loud)

MORE OUTSPOKEN WOMAN: “So glad to know you think we are interesting.”

ME: “Well, it’s certainly been interesting talking to you.”

WOMEN:  “It’s been interesting talking to you too. Have a nice day!”

Wednesday afternoon. I stayed out of the park, fully expecting that my comment that they are crazy would occur to them later and they’d be back to say they were offended by that!

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Cuenca of The People

Its full name is Santa Ana De Los Cuatro Rios De Cuenca. Four rivers flow through it and end up in the Amazon River and the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. It’s high in the Andes Mountains of Ecuador. The world knows it simply as Cuenca. Thousands of Americans of retirement age call it home. And many travelers regardless of age know it as an absolutely fantastic place to visit. I came to Cuenca not expecting much. I had not done my research. This time I decided to let my next destination pleasantly surprise or disappoint me. I extended my stay in Cuenca. That should tell you something, especially since I am anxious to get to Peru. Cuenca and its nearby towns are a feast for the eye. Indigenous women dressed in traditional clothing are everywhere. The city, surrounded by mountains, gives a glimpse back to colonial and pre-Columbian times. There are Inca and Cañari  ruins. Beautiful colonial churches. Plazas and parks. And the spectacular Cajas National Park, a place of incredible natural beauty. And of course, the people make a city. The people in Cuenca are welcoming to foreigners. You wouldn’t have thousands of Americans and ex-pats from other countries living here if that were not the case. All over the city’s colonial center English is heard. If you are seeking a destination other than the usual, visit Cuenca. You will be glad you did. I’m happy I did. Here are some images of Cuenca and the nearby towns of Gualaceo, Chordeleg and Sigsig, all places that are worth a visit on Sundays to witness the indigenous food and arts and crafts markets on full blast. The smells. The colors. The Bustle! The incredible bargains!  Enjoy.

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