Posts Tagged With: Calama

Marred By Plans

It was just one of those days that did not go according to plan. In retrospect, I should have just hopped on a bus and gone to San Pedro de Atacama, a village about an hour away that draws thousands of visitors because of its natural beauty and archeological importance.

My weekend plan was to simply get myself settled in Calama: shop for groceries, wash some clothes, do some sprucing up in my room and the house. Most of this never came to be after the call came.

On the line was Javier, who runs the language lab at the International Institute. He said a student who had canceled her English lessons the previous day wanted to pick up the lessons at 11 a.m.  – in about a half hour from the moment I received the call on my day off! I hesitated. I reminded Javier it was my day off. I said I had things to do.  It’s only one class, he said, one hour of my time. Rats!

The muck mucks at the institute have a habit of calling the teachers last-minute on their days off to come in to work, I was warned. Stand firm. Hold your ground. Say no. And I could have refused, but less than a week on the job as an English teacher I decided this once – and only this once – would give up part of my day and on such short notice to rush in to work because, as I suspect, someone dropped the ball. This was my gift to the muck mucks. I will give 100 percent during my regularly scheduled work hours – Monday through Thursdays, with minimum 12-hour days on Tuesdays and Wednesdays – but come Friday, Saturdays and Sundays, that would be my time to recover from those very long workdays and to use as I please – not to report to work again with no compensation. That’s not helping me and it certainly would not be helping the institute as if I allowed this to continue I would turn up for work exhausted. They certainly don’t want that?

So my roommate Zack was in the shower. I had to wait my turn. I had about 15 minutes to spare to get to the office. Fortunately, it is just across the street from the house. A walk across a dirt field and I’m there. Still, in and out the shower, into clothes, grab all my teaching materials, out the door, takes time. And yet, I managed to get to work in time. And of course, the student is late.

I’m not one for excuses. Chileans walk with a bag full of excuses. The main thing about them is that they’re always late. They laugh it off as a Chilean thing. And nobody apologizes for being late or for making you wait or making you late. “I’m Chilean” is the closest thing to an apology.

But I’m not going to beat up on Chileans on this. It’s frankly common in most Latin American countries. And because Miami is a very Latin city, it’s common in Miami, too. So I’m used to it. You just have to grin and bear as much as you can. Patience. Lots of patience is required.

So my student shows up 15 minutes late and she wants my personal history: where am I from? How did you learn Spanish? Do you like Calama? Fine, fine, but I tell her to ask the questions in English. She struggles with a few of the words but she gets through the questions. Now let’s begin the lessons.

Slightly more than an hour later I leave the institute, head home to quickly empty my backpack, and head for the grocery store. I will use the empty backpack to carry the groceries home. It’s a bit of a walk from the house to the store. But it’s a beautiful sunny day and I don’t mind walking.

I get to Lider, the Wal-Mart-like grocery store – which I then learn is actually owned by Wal-Mart. But where are the shopping carts? The store is packed with people. I ask a security guard about the shopping carts and he points to an empty spots where they usually are and says that there aren’t any and that my best bet is to go down to the parking garage and try to find one there. Oh-k!

I walk to the underground garage and find that dozens of other people have the same idea – stalking shoppers leaving the store – for their shopping carts. I try a few times but every person I ask already has someone waiting for the cart. I spend a good 15 minutes walking from person to person exiting the store. Nope, sorry, the cart is taken.

I go back upstairs to the store and still no carts. I decide well, maybe today is not a day to shop. I will pick up as much as I can carry and come back not on a weekend – maybe Monday when all these folks are at work. So much for grocery shopping.

Laundry detergent was high on my list and it was one of the items I was able to carry without the benefit of a shopping cart. Cool, so when I get home I can at least do my laundry and have some clean clothes. No such luck! Saturday is was also apparently the day my other two roommates, Thomas and Pamela – a couple from what I like to call “the other Portland” – Portland, Maine – had a load of laundry already in the washer and a full basket in waiting. Hmmm…Oh-k! Maybe I should clean up around here, tidy up the room a bit. Nah! You know what? I think I’ll go back to bed instead. I probably never should have gotten out of bed in the first place. Will get it all done next week. But no matter what, by weekend, San Pedro, here I come! At least that’s the plan.

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The Calamity in Calama

The dog on the left with the blue shirt and white star was attacked and chased into submission by these street dogs that invaded his neighborhood. Then the "alpha male dog" turned on another dog in the pack in what turned into a vicious dog fight I witnessed.

What you are seeing is a dog fight between two dogs of the same pack. The dog on the bottom got the worst of it and limped away.

The dog in the middle on top of the other dog is apparently leader of the pack and asserting his dominance as the poor neighborhood dog wearing a sweater approaches. He's in for a nasty fight.

 

YOU DON’T WANT TO TANGLE WITH SOLDIERS WHO WEAR THESE SUNGLASSES: Chilean troops based in Calama march through the streets, ready to defend the homeland.

The town is called Calama, but they may as well have named it Calamity. Or at least that’s the impression inhabitants have given in the short time I’ve been here.

In less than a week in this dusty mining town in northern Chile, I’ve been warned to be careful about packs of street dogs that behave more like wolves on the attack; tricky gypsy women out to relieve the unsuspecting of cash and credit; roving band of drug-addicted robbers looking violently take possession of other people’s valuables; of contaminated tap water with high levels of stuff that can kill you; on and on. Who would think a decision to come to Calama to teach English would be potentially hazardous to my health? Well, living life is a big hazard in of itself, isn’t it? I’ll just continue to hope my Guardian Angels have not abandoned me, thinking “kid, no way we are spending a minute in this Podunk town!”  🙂

For those of you who aren’t keeping up – and God only knows why you are not! – Calama kind of just happened. I was in Peru on my way to Bolivia. I had La Paz on my mind, its mountains, the salt flats of Uyuni, and the landscape and people I had heard so much about. Ready for Bolivia I was. Then the good people at the International Center contacted me to ask if I would be interested in joining their team of English teachers for at least the next six months. My task would be to teach English to executives at one of the local copper mines. After some thought, and with South America in the throes of winter, I accepted the offer. The idea is to wait out winter here and continue travel in nicer summer weather.

A word about the region’s copper mines: Chile is the world’s largest copper producer and boasts the world’s largest copper mine. The mines are in the northern part of the country and Calama is a town that sprung from that mining production. The mines date back to pre-Inca times. In other words, the indigenous people that lived in the region pulled copper from the area long before the Incas and the Spaniards came to the area. The mines were the source of wars between Chile, Peru and Bolivia with archrival Argentina threatening to also attack Chile. Argentina has a longstanding beef with Chile over some southern islands. Not to mention their rivalry over futbol 🙂 Chile managed to kick serious butt and in the process took land from Peru and Bolivia. To the victor go the spoil, right?

In that so-called War of the Pacific, Chile kept several cities and towns from Bolivia and Peru. One of those towns it took from Bolivia was Calama. The Chileans had marched all the way to Peru’s capital, Lima, and contend they could have kept even more territory. The Peruvians and Bolivians still hold a grudge with Chile over the lost territories, especially Bolivia which lost its access to the Pacific Ocean. Chile maintains a very strong army just in case its neighbors try anything foolish. Most military experts note that Chile would handily beat back any aggression. They are probably right. Chile maintains a military contingency in the north and I saw them marching through the streets and they looked like a fierce force.

Let sleeping dogs lie

Anyway, there’s no soft way to put it: Calama is an ugly city. Some say it’s not even a city, that it’s an encampment of miners and mining-related industries. A Chilean colleague at the International Center told me that I picked the ugliest city in Chile to visit first. She said the reason the city is so ugly is because it grew out of a collection of substandard houses and buildings to house and provide services to the miners. Nobody was thinking aesthetics.

One of the first questions I’m asked by residents of Calama is what I think of their city. That question is usually followed with a statement from them that it’s okay to say it’s ugly because it is. Clearly some of them don’t think much of the place. I for one think I can survive here six months. I don’t mind that the place is ugly. I care more about the people and how they treat me, and so far, people have been very friendly.

Now, if only those rabid dogs, those street thugs, those tricky-dickey gypsies and the carcinogenic water would leave me be.  🙂

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