Personal Space

I’ve said it before but for the record I’ll say again that there is no such thing as “personal space” beyond the United States. This notion that you own the air and a certain distance – 360 degrees around you that should not be violated – is an American invention and unwritten rule that billions of people in other countries find incomprehensible, ignore daily, and are perfectly okay with it.

Every day in Colombia, I’m reminded of this. I am standing on the train, there is plenty of space all over the place, and yet a woman chooses to stand right in front of me – face to face – and I’m screaming in my head “PERSONAL SPACE INVASION!!!” and she is seemingly not having a problem at all with the fact she’s standing practically nose to nose.

If you want "personal space" try an isolated and desolate beach, such as this one in Tayrona Park, Colombia

Sticking with the Metro for another example, I sit down and there is an empty seat between me and this man yapping on his cell phone. He decides, what the hell, the seat is empty so he’ll just stretch his free arm across it. Only problem is, as he talks on the phone he also talks with his hand laying across the back of the seat and that hand has gone way beyond my “personal space” touching my shoulder. I shift away a bit but I’m pinned in by the glass to my right. Each time I feel his hand, I look over annoyed but he doesn’t get it. Finally, I gesture for him to move his arm back to where it belongs, in his own space. Still yapping on the phone, he looks at me as if clueless of what I’m trying to say. He finally gets it and moves. We do stupid things while on cell phones, so this may just have been a function of his cell phone distraction, but still.

Next day I’m sitting in an empty coffee shop and four people walk in. Instead of choosing to sit at a table far away, they choose the table next to mine and proceed to make a nuisance of themselves by shifting the table closer to mine to accommodate more of their arriving friends. Pretty soon I’m pretty much pinned in. I guess they liked this table next to mine much better, but I who grew up with the whole personal space thing just don’t get it.

What personal space are you talking about fool? It's carnaval! The Carnavalada, Barranquilla, Colombia

On a park bench later that evening, I’m chilling, watching the world go by. Several other park benches are empty and guest which bench woman chooses? It happens on the bus. It happens in restaurants. It happens everywhere. The reality is personal space is not an issue with the rest of the world. Perhaps it’s because much of the world lives in confined spaces to start with. They are crammed into cities, share small huts with large families and must coexist in such close proximity. I’ve seen it in Europe, Africa, Asia, Central and now South America.

Truth is, like the cold showers I’ve had to endure every day, I’ve grown sort of used to giving up my personal space. Unless the person is being obnoxious like the guy on the train, I embrace the fact that people are comfortable enough with each other to stand so close to strangers. But I still in my head hum that anthem of personal space by The Police: “Don’t stand…don’t stand so…don’t stand so close to me…don’t stand…don’t stand so…don’t stand so close to me…” Hmmm… those guys are Brits, aren’t they? Maybe we as American inherited the whole “personal space” thing from the Brits.

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Supia: Gold in these Hills

I took a trip three hours south of Medellin, to a town called Supia, where they have been mining for gold since the days of the Spanish Conquistadors. Along with friends Mauricio and Katrin of Munich, Germany, we set out to talk to the miners. They at first were understandably apprehensive about talking to us since they did not know who we were. But once we chatted a bit, they were more open and allowed us to take pictures. Some of these miners are operating outside of any government guidelines and so we understood the concern. They dig tunnels mining for gold while others sift the river. It’s dangerous work going down into these tunnels. And certainly hard work. The rocks and boulders you see scattered about the mine were removed by hand from the dug up tunnels by the men. No machinery! Just brute strength and will. The men said this particular mine was so far not yielding much gold and they would likely abandon it and dig another elsewhere. This is but one of several such mines in these foothills. There is gold here alright. Spain sent its conquistadors here after learning that the indigenous people were themselves finding lots of gold here. And when the conquerers could no longer rely on the indigenous people to do the backbreaking work, they brought slaves from Africa. That’s why there is such a large black population here, mainly in the nearby village of Guamal. They are the direct descendants of slaves. This area is rich with history that dates back nearly 500 years when the natives called this land home and had it all to themselves.

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Medellin By MetroCable

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On Thursday took one of the cable car lines to the top of the mountain where thousands of people, middle class, rich and poor, live in Medellin. It was an incredible experience. Riding a cable car that hovers a few feet above the roofs of houses then suddenly zooms skyward gives you a sense of flying like a bird. The cable car moves slowly – or so it seems – but reaches the top quickly. There are two stations before reaching the third and final station at the top where the view of Medellin is simply spectacular. This trip is not for those who have a fear of heights. You are being whisked pretty high up but is it ever worth it.

I love this cable car ride and want to do it again, only next time I will remember to shoot video 🙂

As you ascend you will see people below going about their daily lives. You will see them sitting on their porches and balconies; in their living rooms and yards. You will see kids at play and young men playing basketball. Or messing about in the river. As you reach the first station and look back you realize how high up you are. But you are not done yet. More climbing. The cable cars door open to allow you to exit if this is where you wish to exit then close moments later to continue the journey upward to the second stop. There you sigh. And yes, nerves get to you a bit. You are on a mountain. But stay onboard and prepare to take it the ultimate view at the very top, where they have built high rise apartments that have even more dizzying views of the landscape and city. I took a walk around the neighborhood then sat for a moment just to absorb the beauty – and lives of rich and poor – before me. For this is a land of haves and have nots, like so many places around the world.

As I descended I met three Americans – one from Alabama and two from Northern California – and we spent some time having a beer in one of the neighborhoods up on the mountain that I’ve been warned to avoid. Very true that some of these neighborhoods are dangerous but we did not stray too far from the cable car, an area deemed safe during daylight. But as Cat (woman from California) suggested we go deeper into the neighborhood to explore, I asked a local man at the “tienda” where we were having our Pilsners if it was safe for us to venture further and he first hesitated then said no, that only if we went with someone who was from the neighborhood. He said it was not safe for us. So we heeded his counsel and decided to head back down to sea level to find food. It was a good day.

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