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Journalist, writer, world traveler

A Proper Treatment For Lech Walesa, Anyone?

Lech Wałęsa

Lech Wałęsa

The Jasna Góra Monastery holds in almost equal proportion ancient treasures and treasured modern-era items. Its collection ranges from religious relics to pieces that tell Poland’s more recent history. Chief among the priceless items is the iconic Black Madonna of Częstochowa. To be sure, that Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus is the monastery’s top draw by far. After visitors have bowed and spent the proper amount of time on bent knees in reverence to her, they largely spend the rest of their time at the 631-year-old monastery exploring its riches housed throughout the grounds and in several wings. Once I was done trying to catch a glimpse of the Madonna, I headed over to the armory, which displays a variety of medieval weapons and suits of armor, in addition to more items that detail key events in Poland‘s recent history. As I looked at items enclosed in glass displays, I was very surprised to come across one particular item – Lech Walesa‘s 1983 Nobel Peace Prize. How could this be? Was it the real thing? At first there was some doubt because in my mind there was no way Walesa’s Nobel Peace Price be given such short shrift, such a careless treatment. The gold medal and accompanying certificate were in a glass case, and thank goodness for that, but displayed haphazardly, squeezed into a nondescript corner with a few other seemingly unrelated items. It was as if the award was meaningless; given less prominence than it deserved. I’ve seen high school trophies given better treatment than Walesa’s Nobel Peace Price.

So what is going on here? Is this how you treat the world’s grandest Peace Price earned by a native son and leader of the movement that toppled a repressive government and led to the collapse of other Communist governments across Central and Eastern Europe, like falling dominoes?

After shipyard workers in Gdansk challenged Poland’s Communist government and in essence the entire Soviet Bloc, the Berlin Wall fell and East Germany ceased to exist. But months before, Poland had been freed of tyranny, though most people erroneously point to Berlin as the beginning of the end of the Soviet Bloc and the Warsaw Pact.

Walesa’s Nobel Peace Price is something I would expect to see prominently displayed in a proper museum, alongside other items of the Solidarity movement. Instead, a visitor is surprised to find the actual Nobel Peace Price in the monastery, which Walesa – who is said to deeply value his Catholic upbringing – donated to the church. But do people around the world – for that matter, people in Poland – even know that the award is in the monastery? Perhaps the Catholic Church shouldn’t be in the museum business, if that’s not the case. And maybe I’m  making too much of this. Or maybe the church is making too little of it. Or maybe the church simply needs a proper curator.

I say, let’s give Walesa’s place in history its proper due and put that Nobel Peace Price somewhere center stage, handled in a proper exhibit, in a museum that is fitting of his achievement. How about it? Anyone?

A wing of the monastery, shot from the bell tower

A wing of the monastery I shot from the top of the bell tower

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POLAND: The Black Madonna of Częstochowa

It was my third visit to the Jasna Góra Monastery in Częstochowa.  Not that the Polish city – population 240,000 – has that much going for it, as cities in Poland go, that it warranted three visits. Częstochowa is not particularly pretty or even interesting, though if you dig deep enough into the beginnings of any place you could come up with plenty of factoids to snag your interest. But on the surface, Częstochowa is the sort of place a traveler breezes through on his or her way to a town abuzz with far more excitement. Yet, must every city be exciting?

Częstochowa does have somewhat of a nightlife. On my first night in town, friends and I hit a local bar where I downed my share of  beers dispensed from a tall clear-glass beer cylinder.  The bar, it’s atmosphere calm and relaxed, brews its beers in-house, and two that I tried were actually quite good.

The Black Madonna - as close as I got - aided by my camera zoom

The Black Madonna – as close as I got – aided by my camera zoom

There is a place in this world for cities that are meant simply for relaxing and a good night’s sleep. Częstochowa is such a place. Great for weekend getaways from the hurried madness of larger cities such as Warsaw, which is just 2-plus hours north, give or take traffic congestion and how fast you dare to push your speed. Częstochowa is also blessed with nearby scenic beauty. You can explore the ruins of a 14th Century castle in Olsztyn, about 25 kilometers (16 miles) from the Częstochowa city center.

I climbed to the top of the bell tower - all 310 spiraling steps

I climbed to the top of the bell tower – all 310 spiraling steps

The medieval ruins rest atop a hill that overlooks the city of fewer than 2,500 people. Several kilometers away, you can spend a lazy afternoon by The American Lake – origins of the name unknown to me and my local hosts – eating trout freshly fished right out of the waters and grilled in minutes. With a crust of almonds and a touch of garlic, delicious! Choose one of several side dishes and if that isn’t enough, dessert. This tranquil setting about 40 minutes from Częstochowa attracts people from near and far. It’s perfect day trip from Częstochowa, which is largely a place for families and traditions that hold together communities. So while there isn’t much to Częstochowa itself, there is much to do if you cast your net wider to include its surroundings.

Where Częstochowa lacks in certain areas, it makes up in it’s nearby natural beauty.  And yet, Częstochowa draws more visitors than many places in Poland. How is that? Simple: the Jasna Góra Monastery.

The monastery is home to many treasures, but none so precious as the iconic Black Madonna of Częstochowa.  The Madonna is indisputably the city’s top draw. The revered image of the Virgin Mary and the Jasna Góra Monastery itself were chief reasons behind my three visits to the 631-year-old monastery founded by Pauline monks who came from Hungary. The Jasna Góra draws millions of visitors from around the world, and millions more during an annual religious pilgrimage to the shrine. During that period in August, the religious faithful walk for hundreds and even thousands of miles from all points across Poland to demonstrate their devotion to the Black Madonna, whose origins and creation has befuddled scholars. Experts have not been able to agree on the age of the piece because the original image was badly damaged then painted over. In 1430, the icon was severely damaged by Hussite invaders. Early history documents have the icon arriving in Częstochowa from Jerusalem in 1382, but others have argued that it came to the city even earlier. No matter, it is very old, priceless and a fountain of strength and inspiration to many in every corner of the world.

So it is then no surprise that on three tries I couldn’t get near the icon and only manage a blurry photograph captured with my camera’s zoom lens. On my first visit more than  a month ago, huge crowds kept me at bay.

Almond-crusted trout

Almond-crusted trout

On my second visit, even larger crowds attending some special Mass. And on my third and final try the next day, smaller crowds, but still big enough. I pushed – or rather I was pushed forward with the crowd surge – toward the Madonna inside the tiny, cramped chapel. I was carried just shy of a black and gold wrought iron gate that protects the Madonna when closed off to the public. The crowds trying to walk up to this Black Madonna, some on their knees, were too much. I snapped a few photos from afar and turned back, after it became obvious that it would have taken far more time than I could afford to stand in the crush just to inch a few feet closer. I simply did not have enough time. I would be returning to Warsaw in just a few hours. Someday perhaps I will return, determined and with an abundance of time on my side to get my closeup of the Madonna. It will take a lot of perseverance, which generally I have – and likely more being pushed and shoved about.

All and all, my time in Częstochowa was amazing. I spent the entire weekend with the  family of a couple of friends and their friends. It was my golden opportunity to spend time in the home of a real, live Polish family, and the Nowaks – four generations in all – did not disappoint. I ate, and ate and ate – and ate some more, until I could no more. 🙂 Of course, there was some  delicious Polish food. I may not have seen the Black Madonna up close and personal, but I saw the love of family, and sometimes family is all you need.

 MY GRACIOUS HOSTS, FOUR GENERATIONS

My most amazing, fantastic hosts! Thanks!!!

My most amazing, fantastic hosts,the Nowaks

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Brother, Can You Spare A Penny – How About 50 Dollars?

beggars

Street beggars have existed since the dawn of civilization.

As sure as currency exchange houses will try to take you for a fool, anyone who travels is bound sooner or later to be accosted by a street beggar. I don’t believe any country is free of the panhandlers. At least no country I’ve ever visited. And I’ve seen many.

Begging is prohibited in some places, but the beggars find creative and  inconspicuous ways to beg. To remain under the radar of the authorities, some try to blend into the larger population and stop you on the street, as a sweet grandmotherly type did to me recently in Warsaw. She did not fit the mold of a street beggar, just a little old lady on her way.

I’ve seen just about every approach. The begging tactics out there are as varied as the  number of beggars. Some will use the direct approach and simply ask you for some spare change. One guy once asked me for a penny, knowing that as soon as I reached into my pocket I would come up with more than a penny. He was successful at getting passersby to give him money, after all, who can’t spare a penny? But I’ve had people ask me for outrageous sums, often accompanied by a sob story, such as needing to get to the other side of the world to visit an ailing mother. One guy on the metro platform in Miami asked me for “$50 or whatever” I could afford to help him get to South Carolina to see his dying mother. I gave the guy a couple of dollars not knowing if his story was true or not, but it was $2 I could afford to give away. The very next evening, the same young guy asked me for $50 and the same story of his nearly departed mother. I reminded him that I had given him money the night before. “Oh,” he said. “Thanks” and move on to others. The very next day, same guy approaches me. I said “You’re kidding, right?” He did not remember me. And for weeks I saw the same guy telling people the same story. He was a young guy, about 22 years old, obviously running a game.

I remembered him when last week another a beggar in Warsaw asked me for 50 zlotys. That’s more than $16 by today’s exchange rate, or more than 12 euro. He had first tried to ask for money in Polish and when I told him I did not speak the language, he asked in English if I was American, and banking on the generosity and supposed wealth of all Americans, he upped the amount he wanted, from 5 to 50 zlotys. I’ve been in Poland long enough to tell the difference between 5 and 50, even without fluency in the language.

Over years of travel, I have had some interesting encounters with street beggars. Sometimes I give. Sometimes I just say no. It all depends on my mood and the beggar’s vibe or energy.

Sometimes I am happy that I said no to certain persons, such as a woman who was so verbally nasty after I said no to her demand that I give her a dollar. After I said “Sorry, I can’t help you,” she shouted directly to my face: “YOU BET YOUR SORRY!!”

In Warsaw, Poland, a woman on her knees, praying that her begging will pay off?

In Warsaw, Poland, a woman on her knees, praying that her begging will pay off?

Beggars don’t all necessarily want money. Some will ask for a cigarette or that you buy them food (which I am more apt to do than give money), while others just want to bum a cigarette. The first person who used the line  “why lie…I need a beer” was likely very successful because it was funny. It just doesn’t have the same impact it once had. New approaches often lose their punch with time and as they gain widespread usage around the world. Some adult beggars use their children to beg. I found this to be the case across much of South America. I didn’t like the way some of these mostly women forced their children to help them beg for money. To me it seemed abusive. In the state of Oregon in the United States, I once saw a young woman sitting on the sidewalk with a newborn baby, asking for money in front a downtown bank. It was in the city of Portland, and many – myself included – were concerned for the welfare of the child and tried to tell the young woman about various social services available to her. That only made her angry. She wanted money. She did not want to hear about anything else. “If you’re not going to give me money, please leave me alone,” she told me, quite indignant after I said I could try to help her get proper help. Others who tried were treated with equal disdain by the young woman. Who knows if that child was even hers, but fact it she showed no interest in getting off the street. Cash was her only interest.

Sometimes children themselves are the beggars. And some of them can be downright aggressive – probably facing the wrath of a parent or other adult should they not return with a fair amount of cash. Once in Harare, Zimbabwe,  I gave some loose change to a child beggar. Before I knew it, I was surrounded by more than a half-dozen other kids tugging at me and demanding money as well. One young girl who was about 7 or 8  years old grabbed and latched on to my left arm and refused to let go. I raised my arm and lifted her off the ground and she still would not release my arm. A local merchant, noticing what was happening, came out of his store and began to shove the kids away from me while screaming at them in their native language. I learned my lesson: If you’re going to give money to children on the street, make sure you know if there are any others around or be prepared for a full assault. Even handing out candy or pencils to children can create a mob scene.

Some beggars are truly in need while others are nothing more than truly skilled at convincing strangers to hand over their loose change. They know how to spin a tale or make you laugh and win you over in short order. But recently, I have noticed an approach in Europe that I have not seen anywhere else – not to say it isn’t happening anywhere else – just I haven’t seen it. That’s the beggar on his knees, arms stretched in front of him usually holding a cup. A slight variation on this is someone knelt in prayer.

On my recent trip to Austria, Hungary, Czech Republic and Slovakia, I saw several beggars in this most humiliating of positions. Someone assuming this position sends a message that they are at your feet, low, not worthy. I find it dehumanizing and while it’s the least aggressive form of begging, it troubles me to see another human being assume that position.

In Prague, I dropped a few coins into the cup of one of these on-bended-knees beggars and he didn’t even rise to acknowledge. He didn’t even move. Not that I expected anything from him. It just struck me as curious.

My bottom line when it comes to street beggars is to give if I feel the person is sincerely in need. Of course, no way of telling if that is truly the case. But it leaves me with the feeling I’ve done something to help someone and when it’s all said and done, that’s all that really matters.

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