Monthly Archives: August 2011

Every Protest Should Rise To This Level Of Fun

"What Would Chile Be Without Calama?"

I have to hand it to Chileans. Well, at least the Chileans in the northern town of Calama. They know how to make anti-government protest and random acts of civil disobedience entertaining. I’ve never had so much fun at a demonstration.

Not that I’ve participated in many protests to know the dynamics, the mechanics and what is to be expected. I have to think back to my college years to recall a demonstration I took part in. It was against a proposal to replace the free-wheeling, free-choice Liberal Artsprogram with a mandatory core set of academic subjects. So instead of entering college and choosing which subjects you wanted to take toward your major, a freshman would be required to take a series of  courses in math, science, English and a sprinkling of other subjects before he or she could fully concentrate on subjects in whatever major he or she had settled on.

Masked Man

Minority students saw that as a backdoor strategic move to scrap ethnic studies, such as Black Studies and Puerto Rican studies. Demonstrations decades before had led to the establishment of those departments and students weren’t about to let them go without a fight. I still remember the chant of hundreds of students in front of the administration building: “Core curriculum we say no! Ethnic studies won’t go!!” We lost that battle. All the college administration had to do is wait. Soon, the vocal opponents would have graduated and moved on to real life issues, such as jobs, marriage, kids, a mortgage.

After college I was not allowed to participate in protests or even so much as sign a petition no matter how worthy the cause. I was a journalist and journalists give up certain rights and freedoms other citizens have. Journalists have opinions, certainly, but they must keep them in check if they want to keep their jobs. Of course, journalists who are paid to give their opinion, well that’s a different story.

So this protest thing was sort of foreign to me. As a reporter I had covered my share of demonstrations, but they ranged from peaceful gatherings to the odd guy in a monkey suit chained to a bike rack in front of a federal courthouse.

Music and protest

In Calama, it was all about music. This protest to force the central government in Santiago to give Calama 5 percent of the revenues generated by the copper mines in the region was more like a folk and rock concert than anything else. In between pronouncements and denouncements of the administration of President Sebastián Piñera, bands took the stage and rocked the crowd. The headliners, the Chilean band Sol y Lluvia, had the flag-waving, mostly young audience jumping up and down in unison and singing along. Sol y Lluvia formed in the 1980s and became popular for their brand of music that mixes modern and traditional instruments, but also because of their strong opposition to the dictatorship of General Augusto Pinochet. I really enjoyed this band. And so did the rest of the audience on hand.

Besides the bands, there were cheerleaders doing acrobatic stunts, men and women in strange costumes, jugglers on stilts, flag dancers, loud vuvuzelas left over from World Cup Soccer, and an assortment of other acts that pleased the audience. This was the most excitement I had seen in Calama in the nearly two months I’ve been here.

Freed mayor speaks

Now, I refer to the amassed crowd as an audience rather than protesters because the event evolved into a street festival. Sure, there were some tense moments, but few and far between. At Chuquicamata, the largest open-pit mine in the world, Calama Mayor Esteban Velásquez and several others were arrested and put in jail for several hours after they blocked the entrance to the mine to stop vehicles from entering and exiting in a failed effort to shutdown mining operations. According to eyewitnesses, several of the demonstrators who showed up at the mine around 4 a.m., were forcibly removed by riot police brought in from the town of Iquique, about five hours drive north. The mayor and the others were freed after boisterous demonstrators turned up at the police station to demand their release. Other demonstrators claimed they and others were beaten by riot police at the mine.

Also at the Calama Shopping Mall, which chose to ignore the citywide work stoppage, demonstrators blocked access and refuse to allow potential shoppers to enter. Mall security and police worked out an agreement with the demonstrators to allow the mall to stay open until noon. The protesters agreed and promptly at noon were back at the mall chanting and turning away people who were trying to do some shopping.

Several demonstrators at the mall tried to get me to join them and I pointed out that I was not Chilean and the penalty for foreigners participating in demonstrations in Chileis automatic deportation. The women said they would protest my deportation. Funny.


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Sol y Lluvia

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‘More Forceful’ Revolution Awaits A New Day In Chile


The night is still.

I lay in bed –

– my mind at rest.

The only sound I hear –

– the echo of my breath.

Distant drums break the night’s silence. It’s a rhythm that halts and haunts. I’ve heard these distant drums before. They come regularly with nightfall.

Just before the sun starts its descent and completely vanishes in the horizon of the silent desert, the syncopated slow bang begins, traveling like a creeping fog. I don’t know the reason for the drumming. I do remain curious and someday will have an answer. But as I lay here in bed studying the cracked ceiling, there’s that low rhythmic sound again of a single bass drum.

Boom. Boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Boom. Boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Boom. boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Tonight, the drumming carries a special message – or so I imagine that it does – a message that revolt is in the air. A promise that it will come with the new day.

Boom, boom.

Boom, boom, boom.

Boom, boom…

My breathing locks in. I inhale with each BOOM, BOOM, BOOM of the drum, and exhale with every BOOM, BOOM. Then I wonder: what this city some like to refer to as “Calamity” instead of its true name Calama, will look like come Monday when its people take to the streets to stage a mass demonstration against the federal government in Santiago.

The leaders of Calama and residents say with the protest they hope to send a strong message to the federal government – that the people of Calama have clear demands and will no longer be ignored.

Translation: Use the copper to educate. Four students dead.

Long before I got here, there’s been protest in the air in Chile. Students have been on the streets for months, clashing with riot police in their quest for public education reform. In a nutshell, they want free college education for all.

Some of the demonstrations have been peaceful. Others have been extremely violent. Police have been seriously attacked and students severely beaten. Protesters have overturned and burned vehicles. Public and private property has been set ablaze and windows smashed. Trying to extinguish fires, firefighters have also been attacked. Molotov cocktails, rocks and all sorts of projectiles have been hurled at police vehicles with serious consequences and police have responded with tear gas and water canons.

School sessions at universities have virtually ground to a halt as the massive protests have spread across the country. The students are well-organized and prepared to disrupt. The government has rejected the students’ calls for free education for all Chileans, and so the students have increasingly grown more angry and violent. Chileans tell me they don’t like the violence that has interrupted day-to-day life and seemingly become part of the nation’s fabric.

Labor unions have also staged acts of civil disobedience for their own gains. And now, an entire city – Calama – plans a shutdown and challenge the government in Santiago, over money.

With the sunrise on Monday, another gauntlet of police will be on the streets of a Chilean city. This time the demonstrators will not be a bunch of idealistic youths, but city officials and residents of all stripes in Calama. This, you might say, will be a revolt organized by the establishment. And what do they want? A bigger piece of the pie.

Calama and the surrounding region is where the nation’s copper mines are located. With Chile’s standing as the largest copper producer in the world – the largest open-pit copper mine in the world is in Chile – the region draws billions of dollars in copper export revenue. But according to residents of Calama, most of the money goes directly to the federal government, which then decides how it should be spent.

According to the people of Calama, barely a drop is spent to improve Calama. The good people of Calama want a greater chunk of that revenue generated from the copper mines to stay in Calama. Calama needs it, they say, to improve the overall appearance of the city.

Posters plastered all over Calama announce the protest August 29, 2011

There is no argument Calama desperately needs improvements in its infrastructure and appearance. It’s one of the dirtiest, smelliest, ugliest cities I’ve ever seen. And I won’t get any argument from the people who were born and reared here. They’re the ones who say that Calama is the worst city in Chile and they blame the government for taking and not giving, at least not sufficiently.

There is plenty of money in the pockets of people in Calama thanks to the mining industry in the region. But many of the people who work in Calama escape to their homes in Santiago, Antofagasta and Iquique, or other towns miles away. That’s where they really spend their money. Most, if not all, the copper mine executives work Monday through Thursday in Calama and live in housing provided by the mines, then fly or drive home on Thursday, homes far away from Calama. They wouldn’t think of relocating their families to Calama. For them, Calama is just a place that allows them a well-paying job. So they take their paychecks to other cities they call home.

Similarly, the government takes most of the revenue out of the Calama area to be spent nationwide. Calama residents say that’s unfair, that their city bears the brunt of the mining operations, is severely impacted by the mines and the people they draw, and for that reason Calama should be allowed more of the money generated by the mines.

And so the stage is set for civil action Monday, in a bid to retain some greater portion of the billions of dollars generated by the copper mines.

After months and years of talking to Santiago and getting nowhere, Calama has decided to take it to the streets. It will be the second time they stage a citywide protest – the last one was in June – but city officials promise this time action will be “more forceful” so that “everyone in Chile hears us” and so that “we get a more concrete response from the government.”

Most businesses will not open on Monday. Marches through city streets and rallies will be held. And the aggrieved students fighting for a free education will sure to join in. And the “more forceful” approach to be taken?

As I lay here in bed, the drums banging slowly, accompanied by the echo of my breath, I think “this is Chile,” and that “more forceful” approach could really mean something – or nothing.

Off the wall?: "Students For A Right" to a free education

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My Sixth Sense

I have a sixth sense.

But if only I could learn to read it and harness its power, I could use it for evil. Joke.

This week, I had that strange feeling I’ve had many times before – about a person, a place or some thing. A person or place or thing for no apparent reason suddenly pops into my head and lingers for hours, sometimes days. It’s like that obnoxious song you can’t get out of your head. It happens at the most random of times and try as I might, I just can’t rid my thoughts of him, her or it.

Generally, the thoughts are of someone I know, but more often they’re of some celebrity or public figure. Sometimes they’re of a country or more specifically, a city or town, and not necessarily some place I’ve already visited. The strange part comes into play when a day or two later or within the week, boom! Big news breaks about that person, place or thing. Then I think to myself, I was just thinking about that person or that place or that very thing.

Will and Jada

I’m not sure it’s some sort of superpower or how is it even useful, but I almost always dismiss such nagging thoughts of whomever or whatever and go on with my day. Much more pressing things going on in my head push those seemingly mundane meanderings aside. It’s only after the news emerges about that thing, person or place that I then recall how much I had that subject on the brain only hours or days ago.

So I ask, does this ever happen to anyone else out there? Am I unique in this regard? Is it just all coincidence?

On Tuesday, I had a feeling something was up at Apple Inc. I don’t know why, I just did. It was a strong feeling that popped into my head. I wasn’t reading about Apple or doing anything that would make me think about Apple. I was simply tidying up my room, doing some other household chores. Then wham!, here comes Apple and its CEO Steve Jobs into my head. As always, I pushed the thought aside – or at least tried – but it kept coming back. It lasted off and on throughout the day, well into Wednesday. It was so strong that at one point I thought maybe Apple was about to make some big announcement about one of its popular products and my sixth sense was in high gear. A new iPhone? A significant product upgrade? Maybe a new iPad? An iPad 3? Ah, that’s it. Ah, yes, that’s it, a new and improved iPad, maybe one that finally supports Flash, good heavens!.

iPod Touch

So now I had the iPad on my mind. So much so that while I was on Facebook I began to update my status with: “Look for Apple to soon announce the iPad 3! If you’re in the market for one, wait.”

But before I posted the admittedly bold statement with no backing or sourcing other than my wild intuition, I stared at what I had written for about a minute and thought, “no, that’s not it,” and erased it. Still, I launched Google to double-check how long the iPad 2 had been on the market. Just maybe it was time for a new version of the iPad, no?

So why was I now obsessing about Apple. I like Apple products – own some of them myself – but I am no Steve Jobs “fanboy”. Those who shed tears when Steve Jobs walks on a stage to plug his products need to have their heads examined or at the minimum to get a life. Or just get a grip! [Where is slap-happy General Patton when you need him?]

The fanboys may think Steve Jobs is the Messiah, but he is – gasp! – not. Talk about belonging to a cult, not knowing it, and attacking as stupid anybody else refusing to join!

Cult Leader and Apple CEO Steve Jobs

When Wednesday came, I woke up very early in the morning to get to work, and after the routine swearing at the alarm clock, I took a shower and prepared a light breakfast. Somewhere between pouring the milk and the Mueslix, guess what popped into my mind? I then tried to explain it away: last week I had lost my iPod Touch at work, and I had been thinking about it off and on. I wasn’t so much obsessing or upset about it as I was thinking more along the lines that all my precious data was stored in that little glass and aluminum device. Who, just who had it in their sticky hands and were they using it for evil? No joke.  The very act of keeping what is so not yours is evil. Looking at someone’s private information is evil. Any person who does that is evil. Oh well, an excuse to buy the latest generation iPod Touch, was my thought. Move on.

I walked in to the cavernous building at work, made a cup of Ceylon tea, and sat down to figure out the student lineup. Then as I walked to the office of my first eager-to-learn-English junior executives, one of the department managers – also a student of mine – approached holding up an iPod Touch. “Is this yours?”

Never thought I’d see that iPod again. It had been more than a week. It had mysteriously appeared on his desk, left there in plain sight. My iPod was reportedly spotted on the desk by another mining executive, not one that I teach English to every week. How had the iPod turned up on this desk is still a mystery. I suppose I could have security review the cameras, but who cares. The important thing is I got it back.

I think the person who found it and kept it had remorse and decided to return it, slipping it onto the desk while no one was looking. Just about everyone at the company knew I had lost my iPod and would ask daily if I had found it. They were genuinely concerned about finding it. This isn’t a company where stealing is tolerated, one of them said to me. From the security staff the housekeeping staff, they all were on the lookout. The messages I sent to the iPod’s screen may have also scared that person into turning it in.

For the uninitiated, if you lose your iPhone or iPod Touch, you can engage a feature called “Find My Phone” that locates it via GPS just about anywhere in the world. You can also remotely through Apple’s Mobile Me Website send any message you want to the screen -“Hey, you #$@&!! return my iPod! – or  instantly slap a password on it to lock it and prevent its use. And in a final act to preserve your privacy, erase all the data. All this remotely from your home computer or laptop.

My messages that the device belonged to me and that it be returned or face doom, may have scared the person into doing the right thing. At least I’d like to think so. One thing: the GPS-backed function to locate the iPod on a global map did not work. Otherwise, I would have known where to go find the device. A chemical engineer at the mine, a pretty smart guy, attributed the GPS failure to our desert location where there isn’t a strong signal. I don’t know. It worked great elsewhere, most recently in Chicago when I misplaced it there. A map popped up on the computer and zoomed in on the building, and voila! Found it. Amazing technology and smart thinking from Apple.

So on Thursday morning, I had my iPod back in hand. By Thursday night, on that very same device came a breaking news alert from the New York Times: “Steven P. Jobs Is Stepping Down As Chief Executive of Apple.”

Say what?

The iPad

“I have always said that if there ever came a day when I could no longer meet my duties and expectations as Apple’s CEO, I would be the first to let you know,” Jobs wrote in a statement released by Apple. “Unfortunately, that day has come.”

So iPod Touch back in hand, it alerts me of the news from…..drum roll….Apple! There’s the big news, is what I thought, of course. Bigger news than the release of an iPad 3. Hey, I never said this mind power was about predicting the future. Just that some event – good or bad – is about to unfold in involving the people, places and things that invade my thoughts.

The very same week, I had actor Will Smith on the brain, but not to the degree of Apple. Then word comes the next day and spreads by Facebook and Twitter that he and his wife Jada Pinkett Smith are getting a divorce after 13 years of marriage. Okay. Coincidence?

I think that’s all I will reveal about my superpower…err…gift…err…weirdness.

One thing’s for sure: when it comes to travel, I do listen to my sixth sense. We refer to it as a “gut feeling”. But my gut tells me this sixth sense is about something more.

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